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For her first Fendi haute couture show, Maria Grazia Chiuri embraced the house’s past for the present day. The designer looked to Rome’s rustic elegance, as well as the sensuality of the female body, to inform her latest collection for the Italian house. As an added history lesson, there were also plenty of nods to the late Karl Lagerfeld’s early Fendi years at play — fitting, as the show was held inside Rome’s National Museum of Contemporary Art surrounded by “After un Percorso di Lavern. Fendi/Karl Lagerfeld 1985, After Steps Through Work,” an exhibit that celebrates the late designer’s first 20 years at the brand.
On the runway, Chiuri displayed a simpler take on haute couture’s detailed craft. The show opened with a flowing sheer caftan covered in a wide chevron print, followed by an equally neutral assortment of looks. Similarly minimalist silk blouses, bralettes, loose tailoring, and two-toned maxi dresses all had moments to shine on the runway.
That casual touch also flowed through Chiuri’s more feminine and detailed designs. Plunging sheer gowns and keyhole dresses were crafted from thin floral lace and adorned with fluttering ruffles. Geometric embroidery, swirl patterns, black fringe, and Art Deco-like beading brought a clean glamour to multiple pieces, including several equally light fur capes and coats — a longtime staple for the brand that grew under Lagerfeld’s tenure.
With the clothes taking center stage, the accessories were kept subtle. Most looks were paired with a lineup of braided sandals, lace and mesh pumps, and towering platform heels. Thick burnished cuffs, serpentine bangles, and embossed collar necklaces and signet rings brought an antique feel, as if plucked directly from the ruins of ancient Rome.
Surprisingly, there were no handbags in sight — a notable absence, given Chiuri’s accessory design background and close ties to Fendi, including launching its beloved Baguette bag in 1997. However, there were plenty of Baguettes and Peekaboos in the front row. Sarah Jessica Parker and Jessica Alba (who both front Chiuri’s relaunched Baguette campaign) toted studded versions of the famed flap style, alongside Monica Bellucci, Yara Shahidi, Victoria Luengo, Valeria Golino, and more stars — all outfitted in on-theme neutrals.
Chiuri’s first Fendi couture effort, through its delicate accents and a core palette of cream, ecru, and black, emphasized simplicity with a sensual nature. It’s a darker, less ornate version of the label’s playful Italian flair, much like her past tenure at Dior. With three collections for the brand now under her belt — and a fourth on the way, as Milan Fashion Week’s Spring 2027 shows approach — it’s clear that Fendi is fully immersed in its latest chapter.
Below, discover more top runway looks from Fendi’s Fall 2026 haute couture collection.
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